On Not Chasing the Northern Lights
The Northern Lights have been packaged as one of Earth’s ultimate spectacles, a must-see before you die. Yet beneath their shifting green fire they awaken something else entirely: humility. They are often unpredictable and in that way reminding us that the most exquisite experiences cannot be booked but only witnessed. In Lapland, however, the aurora has been turned into an industry. Buses race down village roads, headlights cut through forests and promises are made that nature itself cannot keep. At Skýra, we believe awe deserves better. This is why we do not chase the Northern Lights, but instead invite our guests to experience Lapland in its fullness — its silence, its folklore, its raw beauty — without reducing it to a single spectacle.
As Skýra has taken shape, our founder Mrs Susanne Hulbekkmo has often returned to a simple question: “Is it worth chasing the Northern Lights in ways that harm nature and culture?”
In recent years, Lapland has become a destination of global fascination. Christmas stories, snowy “winter wonderland” imagery, and the promise of the Northern Lights have drawn record numbers of visitors. Finnish Lapland is now receiving more travelers than ever, the result of decades of patient work by local industry pioneers and professionals. Rovaniemi, a town of just 65,000 residents, expects nearly one million visitors this winter between November and March. Year after year the city opens its arms to people eager to witness what they have seen on screens and been promised in stories
At Skýra, we look forward to welcoming our share of these curious travelers. Lapland, in all its beauty, deserves to be experienced. Yet there is also a shadow side to the industry’s rapid growth. The question of sustainability in Lapland is more urgent than ever. As the crowds reach the delicate Arctic Circle, so too come the consequences of travel that is not mindful of the land, the culture, or the people who call this place home.
The Hidden Cost of Chasing Lights
In Rovaniemi, the intensity of Northern Lights tourism has also brought challenges for both locals and the surrounding nature. Many visitors set out on “aurora hunts” in buses, vans, or rental cars, often ending up on narrow side roads that are, in fact, the very routes that lead locals to their homes. Fires and camps are sometimes set up unknowingly in their backyard, or in areas that are the habitat of local wildlife. In Finland, properties are rarely fenced, as respect for space and quiet is deeply ingrained in the culture. The practice of chasing natural phenomena is unfamiliar to those who live among them. Still, the disturbance created by doing so irresponsibly is left for locals to bear. To the same locals who nonetheless continue to welcome guests to their homeland.
Designing a Retreat Around Respect
Skýra Retreat rests on the shores of Lake Norvajärvi, just 15 kilometers northwest of Rovaniemi. Here, the sky opens wide and free of light pollution. In winter, the frozen lake creates a natural clearing in the dense treeline, offering an uninterrupted view of the northern sky. For us, sustainability must be at the very core of tourism development. We cannot have more, if we don’t first focus on less.
As Skýra has taken shape, our founder Mrs Susanne Hulbekkmo has often returned to a simple question: “Is it worth chasing the Northern Lights in ways that harm nature and culture?” Therefore, from the very beginning, it has been a conscious choice not to build the guest experience of Skýra around the Northern Lights alone.
This does not mean we are against seeking their magnificence. On the contrary, we love the aurora: the way it looks, moves, and even sounds. We love the stories told in Arctic and indigenous cultures and around the world. We feel the way it stirs something the souls of its witnesses. Yet we cannot promise them. We cannot command the weather, nor can we guarantee when the aurora will appear. They are wild, and not to be tamed.
At Skýra we are still monitoring the Northern Lights, and we have implemented logistical design that makes seeing the lights possible from right here, if they come up. We can shut all outdoor-lights for a light-pollution-free view and notify the guests that they're up. But the promise is in the “if”. We promise to do our best to create an environment for our guests to witness them in peace and beauty. And if our guests request us to arrange them one of the guided Northern Light Hunts, we will contact our vetted local partners who also share our values of sustainability.
Lapland Beyond the Spectacle
We believe Lapland and Finland hold far more than what is often commercialized or made viral. There is a rich local history and heritage here, and folklore that stretches well beyond Christmas tales. The nature of this region is glittering, yes, but also raw, powerful, and nuanced. We want the seasons to be able to come as they are. Some winters are colder, others warmer. Some nights are cloudy and some starry. Extraordinary natural phenomena like the Northern Lights are breathtaking to witness, yet they shouldn’t become reasons to overlook ethics or reduce Lapland to a single spectacle. We hope Skýra offers a space to not just consume Lapland but experience it too.
Published 2025-09-04